Prologue

A lot of people have asked what made me want to do this and there isn’t really a simple answer. Because it’s there as somebody famous once said, because I had an old bike sitting in the garage doing nothing, because I know of other people who have done it or similar long distance bike rides, because I fancied it as a bit of an adventure, because it’s one of the things I wanted to do before I die, because I wanted to see if I could as a challenge, and because I saw Ben Fogle on Countryfile once, cycling along a leafy road in Scotland and I thought, that looks like something I want to do.
I made a half-hearted attempt to get it organised for last year, telling people that I was going to cycle Land’s End to John O’Groats, checking websites and route planning, but it never got off the ground. By January 2010 I was more determined and with my wife’s blessing (although she kept telling me I was mad and never really thought it would happen!)route planning, web searches for information and possible accommodation began in earnest. I also intended to start training, not having ridden my bike, a 21 speed Raleigh Pioneer Elite LX for a good many years.
By February I had decided to use Youth Hostels for accommodation and had sorted out a rough route. This would change somewhat as I discovered more about terrain and fiddled with daily distances. Training however had not started. Street view on Google Maps proved to be very useful and I ‘travelled’ quite a lot of my eventual route virtually. This whetted my appetite for the ride even more. As I fine-tuned more aspects of the ride I started to consider how to get to Land’s End and back from John O’Groats; train was the obvious way so I checked the web for timetables and so on. Timetables are not active until twelve weeks prior so I was unable to make definite bookings for myself and my bike until late in May. My brother Andrew kindly offered to give me a lift to Land’s End so I only had to use a train to get home.
By March I had bought a variety of equipment such as a rack pack, handlebar bag, cycle shorts and shirts but still had not actually been out on the bike. I had decided on a route and booked all of the Youth Hostels I would be using. At last at the end of March I went out on my first training ride – an impressive 5 miles! I gradually built this up to around 25 miles by early May. Although the distances were not great I was riding in the Pennines, so hills were a prominent part of every route. I also tried to work hard and pedal every mile. I went out five days out of seven and finally made a couple of 40 plus milers.
I had my bike serviced at my local shop Surosa Cycles and changed the knobbly tyres I had been training on for slicker Schwalbe Marathons. I was ready.
My brother and I travelled down to Penzance where we stayed in the Youth Hostel, a palatial affair compared to when I last Hostelled in 1969.

Day One 25.7.10 Land's End to Golant

We had an early breakfast the following day and got to Land’s End at about 8.20 where there were several other end to enders. After photos at the signpost I set off at 8.45, waved off by Andy. A few miles later he was at St Buryan to cheer me on and run alongside feeding me Jaffa Cakes! The weather was overcast and a bit drizzly at first but gradually brightened up. It was easy going through Penzance and Marazion and on to the King Harry Ferry after which there were some sharp climbs, mercifully fairly short. A lack of signposts at some of the minor road junctions meant I ended up on a couple of unintended detours. Arrived at Golant Youth Hostel at 4.45 where I met two other cyclists Matt and Steve who were just as worn out as me! It turned out that we would be staying at a number of the same Hostels during the ride although our routes were different. After just over six and a half hours in the saddle, a distance of 70.6 miles and an average speed of 10.6 mph I showered, ate and turned in at 8.45.

Day Two 26.7.10 Golant to Exeter

Woke up with a dodgy stomach. I had a light breakfast and set out at 8.30 but couldn’t pedal more than lightly without my insides feeling as though they were going to explode. The weather was drizzly and misty but did gradually clear up. After about an hour and a half of cycling I started to feel somewhat better and stopped at Minions for a brew and a toasted teacake. I met four more end to enders who seemed to be much more proficient cyclists than me and soon disappeared into the distance. Once at Horsebridge the hills seemed to become much more relentless. Steep descents which took a matter of seconds were followed immediately by hard climbs of 15 minutes or more and this unfair pattern continued endlessly. I travelled around the north of Dartmoor with the intention of dropping down into Exeter. That’s the trouble with using road maps – no contours; the route into Exeter was mostly uphill with a particularly savage climb about 10 miles out. Exeter itself does have an excellent cycle path network, and I arrived at the Youth Hostel at 7.00 knackered. I found myself in the same dorm as Matt and Steve, and Andy another end to ender who was also at Golant. 81.56 miles cycled, over eight and a half hours in the saddle and an average speed of 9.3 mph.

Day Three 27.7.10 Exeter to Bristol

Exeter YH was very pleasant, I believe it is going to be closed which is a shame. Matt, Steve and Andy were off to Street, I’m heading for Bristol. We won’t meet up again until Carlisle. Felt much better this morning, light rain to start with and trouble with my pump , a local bike shop kindly sorted it out for me. The route was much flatter today and much more enjoyable although I did encounter three monster climbs and my chain came off during some urgent downshifting at Cheddar. Chafing set in as well so Vaseline and Sudocrem were used liberally. Bristol also has a superb cycle network and I arrived at the Youth Hostel at 6.15. Bristol YH seems to cater for a Bistro type clientele and the atmosphere was very impersonal. This was my least favourite stopover. Seven and a half hours pedalling, 84.09 miles and an average speed of 11.3 mph.

Day Four 28.7.10 Bristol to Leominster

I slept in this morning so didn’t get away until 9.00. A bright and sunny day but fortunately not too hot. It was a fairly flat ride until Monmouth. Crossing the Severn Bridge was spectacular and a highlight of the whole trip. At Monmouth I somehow ended up on the extremely busy A40 and dived off at the first opportunity which was about 3 miles later. It couldn’t really be called a junction and the road soon became single track and then little more than a cart track. I was expecting to have to turn back but after some sharp climbs I met someone mowing their grass who gave me directions and it turned out that I was not really far off course after all. It did get very hilly, somewhat like Devon again! Just short of Hereford I developed a slow rear puncture and decided to wimp out and call at a bike shop to get it sorted. Pulled into Leominster Youth Hostel at 5.45. My favourite YH of the trip, clean, airy and a really nice feel to the place. Walked into town for a meal. Six and three quarter hours pedalling, 71.9 miles and an average speed of 10.5 mph.

Day Five 29.7.10 Leominster to Ilam

My longest day so far at just over 90 miles so I set off at 7.15 after a skimpy breakfast, fully expecting to pass somewhere en route for a more substantial repast. Didn’t see a thing until Bridgenorth, I was starving! The terrain was mostly flat or undulating today and I made good progress. The sky was very threatening all day but I only suffered a few drops of rain on a couple of occasions. I did suffer my first strong headwind of the trip which made for hard work. Climbed Cannock Chase and crossed Blithfield Reservoir. The last 4 miles to Ilam were mostly uphill but the Youth Hostel was a spectacular National Trust property. A group of young women were terribly excited about staying there and wanted to know what the wine list was like!!! I started to adapt to the cycling today, I was less tired and found a 90 mile ride relatively ‘easy’! Ilam YH has an excellent restaurant. Eight hours ten minutes in the saddle, 90.64 miles and an average speed of 11.0 mph.

Day Six 30.7.10 Ilam to Oldham

After a good breakfast I set off at 8.30 in warm and sunny weather, two minutes later came a monster climb out of the village which was hard work as I hadn’t warmed up. (It generally took me 20 minutes or so to get my cycling legs each day.) I used the Tissington Trail, an old railway track, for the first 13 miles – nice and flat. On reaching Buxton I was not looking forward to the four mile climb of Long Hill that I had driven up a few weeks earlier. It was a mark of my increasing fitness that it was much less difficult than I was expecting, and the nice long descent that followed was worth any discomfort. As I approached Stockport it began to rain and this continued all the way to Oldham. I arrived home at 2.30 – best Hostel in the world! A short day of just over four and a half hours in the saddle, 52.5 miles and an average speed of 11.3 mph.

Day Seven 31.7.10 Oldham to Ingleton

Set off at 8.45 – later than intended. A wet day, drizzle, downpour and a strong headwind but enjoyable and fairly easy going although there were some hills as ever. Had a great bacon buttie in Nelson. Buzzards put on some excellent displays once I was beyond Gisburn. My sister and brother in law had travelled across to Ingleton to meet me and treated me to tea and cake, with a meal in a pub later. All in all a very pleasant evening. Five hours and thirty four minutes in the saddle, 61.58 miles and an average speed of 11.0 mph.

Day Eight 1.8.10 Ingleton to Carlisle

Another 8.45 start, waved off by Julie and Matt. The weather looked threatening all day. It tanked down for twenty minutes just before Tebay where I stopped at the motorway services for lunch. The climb to Shap summit was nowhere near as bad as I had been led to believe. Drizzly rain set in as I approached Carlisle where I had trouble finding the YH. Matt, Steve and Andy were in the rooms opposite. It was normally student accommodation; there was no food on so I settled for a Subway instead. I had the only boring experience of the trip – a 15 mile stretch of the A6- straight as a die and as dull as dishwater. Six hours and six minutes in the saddle, 68.79 miles and an average speed of 11.2 mph.

Day Nine 2.8.10 Carlisle to Melrose

Set off at 7.45 and crossed into Scotland today. Feeling especially peckish I had a bacon buttie in Longtown and the rest of my breakfast in Newcastleton. The going was flat until just beyond Newcastleton when a long 8 mile grind kicked in, the reward was an exhilarating 10 minute descent. The villages in the Borders were all immaculately kept. It was an enjoyable ride today and fairly easy – I’m starting to get blasé! There was a bit of drizzle but otherwise stayed dry. Melrose was a pleasant town with an impressive abbey, the YH was also nice. Five hours and thirty seven minutes in the saddle, 61.93 miles and an average speed of 11.0 mph.

Day Ten 3.8.10 Melrose to Stirling

Away at 8.35. It threatened to pour down all day but I only caught the edge of some drizzle. I expected some difficult navigation today but everything went smoothly. A vicious headwind from Edinburgh added time to the journey. It was quite exciting to see the highlands looming up behind Stirling which looked like a fairytale hilltop town. The Youth Hostel was at the top of a steep climb but was very impressive and did excellent food. I struggled to open the dorm door and it was opened from the inside by Matt, Steve and Andy who had cycled to Stirling via New Lanark. Seven hours and five minutes in the saddle, 81.29 miles and an average speed of 11.3 mph.

Day Eleven 4.8.10 Stirling to Crianlarich

As I had a fairly short day to Crianlarich there was no rush and after a leisurely breakfast I set off at 8.55. The terrain was flat and easy going until Lochearnhead. There was then a steady climb, a strong headwind and a very rough road surface which made for a tough few miles. The weather was cool and cloudy until I was almost in Crianlarich and then the sun came out. I had a meal at the railway station tea shop and, read a paper and wrote some postcards. As there were two 90+ milers over the next two days an early night was called for. Three hours and fifty three minutes in the saddle, 46.5 miles and an average speed of 12 mph. Once back home I saw a programme about torrential rain causing major landslides and trapping people who had to be airlifted to safety in August 2004. This was along Glen Ogle which I had just ridden –in August!

Day Twelve 5.8.10 Crianlarich to Loch Ness

The picture above shows Matt, Andy, Steve and myself taking a break on the way to Loch Ness. Today's early start of 6.35 was due to the distance I had to cover and me not quite knowing what to expect from the terrain. The climb up to Rannoch Moor was steady and the weather was sunny-ish. The relentless headwind continued. The view down into Glen Coe looked ominous, very dark and threatening. Sure enough as I started descending it began to lash down and the wind increased, I was having to pedal down a steep hill! Very glad to stop at the Glencoe Cafe for a monster brekkie where the owner told me that in Scotland as far as the weather is concerned you have to take the bad with the bad. By the time I had dried out and warmed up it had stopped raining. The rest of the day’s ride was very enjoyable after that. The terrain was flat, tracking alongside Lochs and the wind became less of an issue as it was now side on. I caught up with Matt and Steve at Fort William and Andy a little later on. None of us saw the monster despite Loch Ness Youth Hostel having spectacular views over the Loch, and its own beach. I arrived at the YH feeling quite fresh and optimistic about the following day’s ride to Helmsdale. Six hours and forty eight minutes in the saddle, 92.96 miles and an average speed of 13.6 mph.

Day Thirteen 6.8.10 Loch Ness to Helmsdale

Set off at 6.40. Loch Ness was like a mirror and reflecting a fantastic sunrise. The morning’s ride was quite flat and made for fairly easy cycling. My breakfast in Inverness was snaffled by a Herring Gull, saw a seal just over the Kessock Bridge and arrived at Cromarty in time for lunch. A short ferry ride to Nigg would give me the chance of seeing Dolphins. I checked the Ferry website a couple of weeks earlier and got my wife to check again a couple of days ago. It runs every half-hour, £5.00 one way. No it doesn’t, when I asked for directions to the Ferry I was told it had not been running since February and no-one knew when it would start again. After a fruitless attempt to find a boat owner who could give me a lift there was no alternative but to start on a 30 mile detour. I hit rain and the endless A9 got hillier and the headwind kicked in. I began to despair of ever reaching Helmsdale. The Hostel was very welcoming and Helmsdale itself had a good selection of restaurants, although no Orange mobile signal or working payphone. I met a quartet who had finished LEJOG yesterday and were from Darlington, close to where I had lived for a number of years, so we chatted well into the evening. Immediately outside the Hostel is a roadsign indicating John O’Groats 55 miles, one day to go! Nine hours and forty seven minutes in the saddle, 123.48 miles and an average speed of 12.6 mph.

Day Fourteen 7.8.10 Helmsdale to John O'Groats

I intended to savour today and enjoy every minute. A lie-in meant I did not get away until 9.10. Almost immediately there was a big climb. This was followed by an undulating lead in to an even bigger climb reminiscent of Devon. Coupled with a very strong headwind, especially on the exposed run from Wick to J O’G meant I was not savouring the day quite as much as I had thought. About a dozen or so riders passed me heading south on JOGLE. I detoured to Dunbeath for ‘Shop, Cafe, Harbour’ – only the Harbour bit was true! The day had turned very sunny and warm and I was feeling quite excited to be nearing the end of the ride. As I freewheeled towards the signpost I had a feeling of relief more than anything, although obviously quite chuffed! I was surprised that there were no other cyclists here. In the hour and a half that I spent at J O’G only one more cyclist turned up. Definitely glad it’s finished and home soon. Four hours and forty three minutes in the saddle, 53.46 miles and an average speed of 11.3 mph.

Day Fifteen 8.8.09 John O'Groats to Thurso

SYHA presented me with an End to End certificate. Left about 9.15 and tootled into Thurso, no headwind! The Orkneys looked impressive and much closer than I had expected. Pondered going to Dunnet Head but as I hadn’t visited the Lizard on the way up there did not seem much point. Maybe I’ll do that sometime by car. Had an excellent breakfast in Thurso at the Tempest Cafe by the Harbour then cycled out to meet Matt, Steve and Andy who were heading in from Tongue. We all had tea and cake back at the Tempest. After saying goodbye I headed to my B&B for the night; it was luxury compared to the hostels.

Day Sixteen 9.8.10 Thurso to Oldham

Up at 5.30, breakfast at Ivordene B&B who would not take payment, insisting that I put the money towards my charity fund – what a wonderful gesture! It renews your faith in humanity. Got the 6.48 from Thurso, one cyclist was refused travel because she had not booked her bike on in advance. Changes at Inverness, Edinburgh and York got me in to Stalybridge only four minutes late. I was impressed with the whole rail organisation. Staff made things run efficiently despite how incredibly busy and hectic it was. A final twenty five minute bike ride got me home at 7.20pm. Job done!

Epilogue

Would I do it again? At this moment no, it was a time hungry enterprise and the training was often relentless. However I thoroughly enjoyed it on all sorts of levels. Being really fit again has been exhilarating. Contributing to good causes, making friends with like-minded people and seeing the country, especially new bits, has been a rewarding experience. It also gave me the feeling that I could achieve anything, a real boost to confidence and ambition. The highlight for me has been the fact that in travelling the length of Britain everyone that I met, drivers included, was courteous, helpful and just, well, nice. We live in a great country.
Finally, although nominally an unsupported ride, without my wife taking all the domestic chores and pressure off me and allowing me to concentrate fully on my training (and making sure I trained even when I was hoping for a day off!) as well as being hugely positive about the ride itself, my brother driving me down to Land’s End, my sister and brother in law travelling to meet me at Ingleton, the texts from family and friends, and the comradeship from other cyclists en route all combined to make the adventure an awesomely satisfying experience. A big thank you one and all.